0 One Icon, One Detail: Gordon Parks' Trench Coat

Gordon Parks was one the most legendary photographers of the 20th Century, capturing the grit and glory of this nation. And he was so successful in doing so because he understood the importance of character, of the little things that could make or break an image or, for that matter, a person. That knack carried through to his personal style, too, as you can see in this self-portrait from 1948, wherein Parks sports what would become a signature piece for him: the well-worn trench coat.

A trench just plain looks better all beat-up and faded from wear, and Parks, who used to wear his coat while shooting in all manner of conditions, had one of the best. Take a page from his book, and think of your trench coat like body armor. Wear it in the rain, in the wind. Let it get worn-out. Let it take all the day's hits for you. There's no need to baby a trench — hell, it takes its name from its WWI origins, so it's clearly not meant to be delicate. Rather, it's meant to look rough around the edges, showing the scars earned from your day-to-day endeavors. Follow Parks' lead. Don't worry about keeping your clothes perfect. Worry about living in them, because that's how you become a legend.

0 Paper Cut Tailoring

Our recent trip to Antwerp saw us take in some culture as well as just the over eating and stock sale hunting. One of the highlights for me, was the trip to the MOMU to marvel at the Paper Fashion exhibition. The exhibition brings together the most remarkable collection of paper fashion creations. In addition to the historic objects from Ancient China and Japan, the exhibition includes designs by Hussein Chalayan, A.F. Vandevorst, John Galliano, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene, IsseyMiyake to name just a few. Although there has been no real question of paper fashion as such since 1968 (previously anything was possible with paper fashion from pop art to political campaign slogans), countless important fashion houses and designers have experimented with paper or with materials that resemble paper.

Of course the exhibition had a heavy womenswear slant but their were still the odd nugget of menswear to savour. Namely James Rosenquist's famous paper suit for Hugo Boss that he wore to Pop art openings and parties in the 1960s. Rosenquist in his paper suit transcended mere fashion and became the perfect embodiment of the era.

Recently remade of Tyvek(r) (a nonwoven fabric made from spun-bonded olefin) brings Rosenquist'spaper suit into the new millenium. This extraordinary garment represents the increasingly explicit link between art and fashion and marries the most enduring form of menswear with the "throwaway" nature of paper.

The fragility of paper stimulated the textiles industry to seek out alternative materials that looked like paper, but which offered more possibilities. Ultimately, Tyvek proved to be the only one of these materials that would continue to be used in the textiles industry to the present day. When I postedabout Saskia Diez's use of the fabric I was most intrigued by it and meant to explore its use further (Miuccia used it expertly to provide monochromatic colour blocks for MiuMiu SS07 collection - it became the outerwear of choice from the bomber jackets to the boxy plebian coats with micro collars) and was even pointed in the direction of Cloth House where the fabric is available. Following a great deal of papier inspiration at the exhibition I will make that trip to Berwick Street this weekend for a closer look.

0 Dress Your Best: Job Interview

At the beginning of the year, we put out a call-out  for readers to take part in a style consultation in NYC for a AskMen web series called Dress Your Best. Judging by the number of emails we got, many of you are looking for guidance in the style department. And that's exactly what we're here for.

We have tons of articles on how to look better, but learning through example rather than reading an article are two different experiences -- especially when you get one-on-one time with an expert.

In the first episode of Dress Your Best, Sachin Bhola, AskMen's fashion editor, meets up with Kyle. Kyle recently relocated to New York after graduating from an art and design college in Florida. He approached us to refine his look for job interviews. Kyle also struggles to find clothes that fit his short body type.

First, Sachin took him to Odin New York, one of the coolest men's stores in Manhattan, to look at suit options and see how to get the most out of one suit during the workweek. Next, they went to premier menswear designer Billy Reid's store to talk about suits and tailoring services. Check out what Kyle learned.

Dress Your Best will air every Friday in March on AskMen. Stay tuned.

0 Chronograph Watches

The World's Most Popular Chronograph Watches

"The Rolex Daytona is one watch that will never go out of style, regardless of the model."

Together with luxury watch market platforms Chrono24 and Ebner Publishing (known for WatchTime magazine), I started a company calledChronolytics to analyze and structure Chrono24 users' behavioral data. We had noticed that there was no real information source regarding consumer behavior in the watch market, so we decided to fill that gap for watch manufacturers.

Besides being a data vendor for the watch industry at large, Chronolytics also culls data that we consider of interest to everyday watch fans -- such as the brands that are generating particular interest within specific timeframes.

In each week of March, we will show you the most popular complication timepieces based on the data we’ve collected from watch enthusiasts' behavior in 2012.  This data consists of millions of watch queries performed by U.S. visitors to the world’s biggest luxury-watch-market platform.

This week, we start with the top five chronograph watches. The chronograph is one of the most popular watch complications (besides a date feature). Although originally meant for recording time during sporting events like car or bike racing, the most famous "scientific" use of the chronograph was probably during the Apollo 13 flight in 1970.

The recorded time can be read from so-called (sub) registers, or recorders. They record the elapsed seconds, minutes and, in most cases, hours. In almost all cases, the large second hand is the chronograph hand while the normal seconds are shown in one of the sub registers. There are, however, also cases in which the chronograph minutes are also recorded by a large minute hand (for example, the Sinn 140).

A very useful complication, as we love to time things. Whether it’s at a sports activity, while traveling or when making a pizza, a chronograph can always come in handy.

Omega Speedmaster

Introduced in 1957, the Omega Speedmaster was meant to be a chronograph for race car drivers. What Omega didn't know was that this model would become one of the most famous watches on Earth (and the moon). In the 1960s, NASA chose the Omega Speedmaster as their official chronograph for astronauts and their EVA activities. In 1965, Omega therefore added the word "Professional" on the dial.

In 1969, the Omega Speedmaster Professional accompanied astronauts Collins, Armstrong and Aldrin to the moon. On the wrist of Aldrin, it became the first watch worn on the moon.

Although Omega has introduced several versions of the Speedmaster since the 1970s, and also recently introduced a Speedmaster model that has Omega's own in-house developed and manufactured movement, the original hand-wound "Moonwatch" is still in the collection.

We’re not surprised that the Speedmaster is the most sought-after chronograph, though it is very close to No. 2 on this list.

Rolex Daytona

The Rolex Daytona turns 50 this year, as the first Daytona was introduced in 1963. This watch is as iconic as it is mysterious, for no one knows exactly when this watch gained such hype. Some people say it’s because of Paul Newman wearing it on the cover of an Italian magazine; others say it started later on when the collector community started showing interest in the hand-wound models from the '60s and '70s while they were still affordable.

In any case, the Rolex Daytona is one of the watches that required a waiting list at authorized dealers. People were even prepared to pay more than the list price. The Rolex Daytona was hot and still is -- as this list proves, demand is still high. But the waiting lists have disappeared and you can now even buy them for less than the list price.

The price for vintage Rolex Daytonas is still impressive. An early Rolex Daytona with hand-wound movement and screw-down pushers (ref.6263) from the 1970s fetches between $30,000 and $40,000. The Rolex Daytona is one watch that will never go out of style, regardless of the model.

0 Shaq On Fashion

Shaq Tells Us How Men Should Dress

Shaquille O'Neal is a four-time NBA champion and is without a doubt one of the best players to ever step on the professional hardwood. While basketball is his bread and butter, it’s not the only realm in which  the future Hall of Famer has thrived. Shaq has also found success in hip-hop, movies, video games, law enforcement and fashion.

Speaking of which, Shaq has partnered up with Reebok to re-release his most popular shoes, the Shaq Attaq and the Shaqnosis. We caught up with the legend at the reintroduction to get some tips on fashion for tall men and how his personal style has evolved over the years.

0 The Chronograph: Degrees Of Complication

Why The Most Expensive Watches Are So Expensive

 "The use of the chronograph, or stopwatch, fundamentally changed the world of sports."

Remove the back of even the simplest mechanical timepiece and the mechanism you see inside looks impossibly complicated. This mechanism, known as the movement, is typically made up of 200 or more individual parts, most assembled manually in a workshop by someone with very steady hands. Here's a look at one of the complications that represent the height of the horological craft.

On April 15, 1970, a hand-wound mechanical wristwatch saved three astronauts hurtling through space in their crippled craft. The wristwatch, a chronograph, was of a design that was unchanged since the mid-1950s. Despite this, or perhaps because of this, it performed where millions of dollars worth of machinery and computers had failed. Used to time a critical engine burn to align the Apollo 13 capsule for Earth re-entry, the chronograph, an Omega Speedmaster Professional, confirmed its place as perhaps the most useful of watch complications.

Time Writer

The word “chronograph” literally means “time writer,” and that describes its function perfectly. At a glance, the chronograph user can see elapsed time “written” on its dial, from as little as one-hundredth of a second up to twelve hours. The uses for a chronograph are endless, from timing your boiling pasta to laying odds at the horse track to getting a spacecraft home safely.

In this modern age, it is difficult to imagine a world without the chronograph, where time would only exist minute by minute and everything would be estimated. There would be no world speed records for cars, humans or horses. We would have to devise a way to compare times.

While other watch complications have their place, the ability of a chronograph to time events longer than one minute makes it a viable tool more than an exercise in horological prowess. With few exceptions, complications are created to display a watchmaker’s or watch company’s expertise and artistry. But a chronograph was created with a specific, crucial purpose.

Most watch historians credit the invention of the chronograph to a Frenchman, Nicolas Rieussec. In 1821, Rieussec unveiled a machine consisting of a clock movement housed in a wooden box, which drove two rotating paper discs. A person could start and stop the machine by means of a switch, and an ink pen suspended above each disc would literally write the elapsed time on the discs. While Rieussec’s chronograph was a huge breakthrough, it was hardly a practical timepiece. Nor did it tell the time of day.

The pocket watch was the way men told time up through the 19th century, and it was only a matter of time before the chronograph complication made its way into pocket watches. Though not a common complication in pocket watches (a chiming minute repeater was the one to have back then), for scientists, horse trainers and anyone else who needed to measure time precisely, a chronograph became essential.

0 AskMen: New York Fashion Week F/W 2013 - The Playlist

The AskMen Fashion Week Playlist

In September 2012, we couldn't shut up about a series of music collaborations we did with some of our favorite brands for New York Fashion Week. If you listened to any of them, you'd understand why. They were guuud. And it seems like you, our readers, and our peers in the industry were big fans, too. So, we're back at it, because we want you to discover more than the clothes, and we definitely want you to experience New York Fashion Week along with us, even if you don't care about the latest trends.  

Now turn that sh*t up.

Sachin Bhola
Fashion Editor, AskMen

About This Playlist + Track Listing

Here's what the AskMen team is listening to during New York Fashion Week:

1. "Skanker" by Rusko
2. "Life Changes" by Casie Veggies feat. Phil Beaudreau
3. "Meu" by Jets
4. "Cirrus" by Bonobo
5. "Vanilla Minus" by Gold Panda
6. "Greyhound" by Swedish House Mafia
7. "Never Say Never" by Brandy (Employee Of The Year Remix)
8. "Mothalova" by Zeroh
9. "Fashion Killa" by A$AP Rocky
10. "Novacane" by Frank Ocean
11. "Killing Switch" by Last Lynx

0 How To Wear Shorts

How To Pull Off Shorts

I work in a corporate area, and, honestly, I rarely see men in shorts, unless it's the odd tourist who thought Midtown East was bumping at 9:00 a.m.

How To Wear Shorts - To The Office

Hey Sachin,

I live in the South and can't figure out what to wear these days. I started a new corporate job a few months ago, and while the office is nice and cool, my commute (I walk for part of it) in the heat is killing me. I get sweaty and uncomfortable, and am wondering if wearing shorts to the office is OK. What about shorts in general? 

Thanks,
Jamie

I feel you, Jamie. I live in New York, and this summer's been hotter than hell. For a lot of guys, wearing shorts is up there with sandals and man bags: Once a certain line's been crossed, we feel like we're in unmanly territory. We have no reservations about wearing an adult-size version of the loose-fit cargo shorts we wore as boys, but ask us to get into something that's slimmer and falls above the knee -- ring the alarm. 

Problem is, you can't roll into work in your weekend shorts. First off, what's your office dress code like? Are the other guys in your office wearing shorts? On casual Fridays? I work in a corporate area, and, honestly, I rarely see men in shorts, unless it's the odd tourist who thought Midtown East was bumping at 9:00 a.m. That doesn't mean you can't wear shorts; it just means you have to decide how comfortable you are with them.

If you've given shorts the green light, choose the right pair. A lot of retailers are now referring to the office-appropriate short as "smart shorts." Think of these as the shorts version of a suit trouser: flat-front, fits well, dark, solid color. My advice is to keep it simple: Boat shoes, like a Sperry Top-Sider, navy "smart shorts," a white polo, a navy blazer and a brown vintage leather briefcase is a stylish way to pull of shorts at the office. Finally, if you're prone to sweating, beat the heat with my tips on sweatproofing your clothes.

0 How To Dress Like James Bond

Style Icon: '70s Bond

Though many men came out of the '70s with a closet full of Halloween costumes, Roger Moore's Bond managed to survive the decade with his dignity and style intact.

Why He's A Style Icon

The 23rd Bond movie, Skyfall, will hit theaters in October 2012 and will star style icons Daniel Craig and Javier Bardem. Meanwhile, a trend that everyone's talking about this fall is retro revival, specifically the '70s. So, we put two and two together, because, if there's anyone that illustrate how to pull off this look it's '70s Bond.

As the incarnation of every man's ideal of himself, Agent 007 always looks suave and sophisticated, even while battling diabolical villains. Throughout the ‘70s, Roger Moore's perpetually impeccable wardrobe as James Bond was stocked with the latest threads, and a look back at the Bond movies from this era is a bit like taking a crash course in the most popular styles of that decade. Interestingly, while ‘70s fashion often appears over-the-top and cheesy to modern-day viewers, as James Bond, Roger Moore's ensembles exemplified only the very best in styles from that period, remaining true to Bond's smooth and polished look and encouraging men everywhere to up the elegance and tone down the disco. For instance, while pants in the ‘70s became increasingly ridiculous with massive bell bottoms, James Bond showed men how to wear this style more tastefully by donning pair after pair of figure-flattering, boot-cut trousers. And when bold, colourful patterns became de rigueur and polyester dominated as the most popular fabric, Bond stuck to a more understated color palette and favored natural fabrics like wool. Though many men came out of the ‘70s with a closet full of Halloween costumes, Roger Moore's Bond managed to survive the decade with his dignity and style intact, continuing to be a style inspiration even today.

Dress The '70s Bond Way

Dressing the Bond way in any decade means taking the latest styles and adapting them to create a sharp yet timeless look that is still somehow fashion-forward. As ‘70s Bond, Roger Moore stuck to Agent 007's trademark neutral color scheme, favoring black, navy blue, gray, brown, white, and various shades of tan and khaki. To keep his look updated for the time, Roger Moore slipped into double-breasted coats and blazers, white tuxedo jackets, slightly flared trousers, French-cuff dress shirts, and turtlenecks. However, even by today's dress standards, much of Moore's wardrobe as James Bond still looks relevant with ‘70s styles staging a fashion comeback every few years. A black, fitted turtleneck, for example, will show off a toned physique and can be worn for a variety of occasions. For a stunning, monochromatic look, team your turtleneck with impeccably tailored black dress pants that look like they were made especially for you. And, as Bond knows, when traveling, these two pieces are easy to pack and offer a great deal of versatility, meaning they'll be just as phenomenal paired with everything else in your suitcase as they will be worn together.

In terms of accessories, ‘70s Bond veered on the side of classic with black leather gloves, striped ties and, of course, Rolex watches to help enhance his magnetic allure. Stylish down to the last detail, ‘70s Bond never left home on business without his ultra-stylized grooming kit, so get yourself a retro-looking toiletry bag complete with a stainless steel razor and your transformation into Roger Moore's iconic Bond is complete.

0 The GQ Guide To Shirting

Think of Your Dress Shirt as Your Bulletproof Vest

It's the first thing you put on and your last line of defense. When you button it up in the morning, you should feel confident, in control, even invincible. Seriously, putting on a crisp, clean shirt that fits perfectly makes you feel like you're the boss. But here's the thing: A dress shirt is not any old shirt—there are a lot of details to get right, from the collar to the cuffs to the cut of the torso. All that said, buying the right dress shirt isn't quantum physics. You can find it at your local mall just as surely as at the fanciest, priciest, most fashionable store on Madison Avenue. You just have to understand the following principles.

0 Korean Fashion For Men

Latest Korean Fashion Trends For Men 2012

With the help of Hallyu wave, along with the huge interest in kpop and Korean dramas, Korean fashion is the new and hip trend. Here, you can find the latest fashion from all across Asia, including kpop stars and actors.

Boys Over Flowers Fashion

 

Ji Hoo

Jun Pyo

Yi Jung

Text With Big Picture

 

Woo Bin

G-Dragon

DBSK/TVXQ

Jaejoong

Changmin

Who Looks Better?