Sunday 7 April 2013

0 10 Outfits From London's Most Astounding Men's Fashion Show

The sweater that read “PLEASE KILL ME” may be the most astute sartorial commentary on Men's Fashion ever to have walked a runway.


This is the opening look from the Sibling show that walked in London Men's Fashion Week.

This is what the label Sibling imagines men wearing in the fall of 2013. Isn't it exciting?! Also, isn't the sentiment of that top just PERFECT for the absurdity of the outfit? Would you not feel that way if you were seen so ridiculously attired? It's just brilliant.

Also: say goodbye to oven mits! This look is your one stop shop for not burning your hands on anything.

Sibling also offered options for those days you're feeling a little sexy.

You don't need to hide your wonderfully sculpted heavage all winter long — show off your fit figure with this body-con scoop-neck sweater.
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Saturday 30 March 2013

0 One Icon, One Detail: Gordon Parks' Trench Coat


Gordon Parks was one the most legendary photographers of the 20th Century, capturing the grit and glory of this nation. And he was so successful in doing so because he understood the importance of character, of the little things that could make or break an image or, for that matter, a person. That knack carried through to his personal style, too, as you can see in this self-portrait from 1948, wherein Parks sports what would become a signature piece for him: the well-worn trench coat.

A trench just plain looks better all beat-up and faded from wear, and Parks, who used to wear his coat while shooting in all manner of conditions, had one of the best. Take a page from his book, and think of your trench coat like body armor. Wear it in the rain, in the wind. Let it get worn-out. Let it take all the day's hits for you. There's no need to baby a trench — hell, it takes its name from its WWI origins, so it's clearly not meant to be delicate. Rather, it's meant to look rough around the edges, showing the scars earned from your day-to-day endeavors. Follow Parks' lead. Don't worry about keeping your clothes perfect. Worry about living in them, because that's how you become a legend.
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0 Paper Cut Tailoring

Our recent trip to Antwerp saw us take in some culture as well as just the over eating and stock sale hunting. One of the highlights for me, was the trip to the MOMU to marvel at the Paper Fashion exhibition. The exhibition brings together the most remarkable collection of paper fashion creations. In addition to the historic objects from Ancient China and Japan, the exhibition includes designs by Hussein Chalayan, A.F. Vandevorst, John Galliano, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van SaeneIsseyMiyake to name just a few. Although there has been no real question of paper fashion as such since 1968 (previously anything was possible with paper fashion from pop art to political campaign slogans), countless important fashion houses and designers have experimented with paper or with materials that resemble paper.

Of course the exhibition had a heavy womenswear slant but their were still the odd nugget of menswear to savour. Namely James Rosenquist's famous paper suit for Hugo Boss that he wore to Pop art openings and parties in the 1960s. Rosenquist in his paper suit transcended mere fashion and became the perfect embodiment of the era.


Recently remade of Tyvek(r) (a nonwoven fabric made from spun-bonded olefin) brings Rosenquist'spaper suit into the new millenium. This extraordinary garment represents the increasingly explicit link between art and fashion and marries the most enduring form of menswear with the "throwaway" nature of paper.
The fragility of paper stimulated the textiles industry to seek out alternative materials that looked like paper, but which offered more possibilities. Ultimately, Tyvek proved to be the only one of these materials that would continue to be used in the textiles industry to the present day. When I postedabout Saskia Diez's use of the fabric I was most intrigued by it and meant to explore its use further (Miuccia used it expertly to provide monochromatic colour blocks for MiuMiu SS07 collection - it became the outerwear of choice from the bomber jackets to the boxy plebian coats with micro collars) and was even pointed in the direction of Cloth House where the fabric is available. Following a great deal of papier inspiration at the exhibition I will make that trip to Berwick Street this weekend for a closer look.
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0 Dress Your Best: Job Interview


At the beginning of the year, we put out a call-out  for readers to take part in a style consultation in NYC for a AskMen web series called Dress Your Best. Judging by the number of emails we got, many of you are looking for guidance in the style department. And that's exactly what we're here for.

We have tons of articles on how to look better, but learning through example rather than reading an article are two different experiences -- especially when you get one-on-one time with an expert.

In the first episode of Dress Your Best, Sachin Bhola, AskMen's fashion editor, meets up with Kyle. Kyle recently relocated to New York after graduating from an art and design college in Florida. He approached us to refine his look for job interviews. Kyle also struggles to find clothes that fit his short body type.

First, Sachin took him to Odin New York, one of the coolest men's stores in Manhattan, to look at suit options and see how to get the most out of one suit during the workweek. Next, they went to premier menswear designer Billy Reid's store to talk about suits and tailoring services. Check out what Kyle learned.

Dress Your Best will air every Friday in March on AskMen. Stay tuned.
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0 Chronograph Watches

The World's Most Popular Chronograph Watches

"The Rolex Daytona is one watch that will never go out of style, regardless of the model."

Together with luxury watch market platforms Chrono24 and Ebner Publishing (known for WatchTime magazine), I started a company calledChronolytics to analyze and structure Chrono24 users' behavioral data. We had noticed that there was no real information source regarding consumer behavior in the watch market, so we decided to fill that gap for watch manufacturers.

Besides being a data vendor for the watch industry at large, Chronolytics also culls data that we consider of interest to everyday watch fans -- such as the brands that are generating particular interest within specific timeframes.

In each week of March, we will show you the most popular complication timepieces based on the data we’ve collected from watch enthusiasts' behavior in 2012.  This data consists of millions of watch queries performed by U.S. visitors to the world’s biggest luxury-watch-market platform.

This week, we start with the top five chronograph watches. The chronograph is one of the most popular watch complications (besides a date feature). Although originally meant for recording time during sporting events like car or bike racing, the most famous "scientific" use of the chronograph was probably during the Apollo 13 flight in 1970.

The recorded time can be read from so-called (sub) registers, or recorders. They record the elapsed seconds, minutes and, in most cases, hours. In almost all cases, the large second hand is the chronograph hand while the normal seconds are shown in one of the sub registers. There are, however, also cases in which the chronograph minutes are also recorded by a large minute hand (for example, the Sinn 140).

A very useful complication, as we love to time things. Whether it’s at a sports activity, while traveling or when making a pizza, a chronograph can always come in handy.


Omega Speedmaster


Introduced in 1957, the Omega Speedmaster was meant to be a chronograph for race car drivers. What Omega didn't know was that this model would become one of the most famous watches on Earth (and the moon). In the 1960s, NASA chose the Omega Speedmaster as their official chronograph for astronauts and their EVA activities. In 1965, Omega therefore added the word "Professional" on the dial.

In 1969, the Omega Speedmaster Professional accompanied astronauts Collins, Armstrong and Aldrin to the moon. On the wrist of Aldrin, it became the first watch worn on the moon.

Although Omega has introduced several versions of the Speedmaster since the 1970s, and also recently introduced a Speedmaster model that has Omega's own in-house developed and manufactured movement, the original hand-wound "Moonwatch" is still in the collection.

We’re not surprised that the Speedmaster is the most sought-after chronograph, though it is very close to No. 2 on this list.


Rolex Daytona


The Rolex Daytona turns 50 this year, as the first Daytona was introduced in 1963. This watch is as iconic as it is mysterious, for no one knows exactly when this watch gained such hype. Some people say it’s because of Paul Newman wearing it on the cover of an Italian magazine; others say it started later on when the collector community started showing interest in the hand-wound models from the '60s and '70s while they were still affordable.

In any case, the Rolex Daytona is one of the watches that required a waiting list at authorized dealers. People were even prepared to pay more than the list price. The Rolex Daytona was hot and still is -- as this list proves, demand is still high. But the waiting lists have disappeared and you can now even buy them for less than the list price.

The price for vintage Rolex Daytonas is still impressive. An early Rolex Daytona with hand-wound movement and screw-down pushers (ref.6263) from the 1970s fetches between $30,000 and $40,000. The Rolex Daytona is one watch that will never go out of style, regardless of the model.

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0 Shaq On Fashion

Shaq Tells Us How Men Should Dress

Shaquille O'Neal is a four-time NBA champion and is without a doubt one of the best players to ever step on the professional hardwood. While basketball is his bread and butter, it’s not the only realm in which  the future Hall of Famer has thrived. Shaq has also found success in hip-hop, movies, video games, law enforcement and fashion.

Speaking of which, Shaq has partnered up with Reebok to re-release his most popular shoes, the Shaq Attaq and the Shaqnosis. We caught up with the legend at the reintroduction to get some tips on fashion for tall men and how his personal style has evolved over the years.
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0 The Chronograph: Degrees Of Complication

Why The Most Expensive Watches Are So Expensive

 "The use of the chronograph, or stopwatch, fundamentally changed the world of sports."

Remove the back of even the simplest mechanical timepiece and the mechanism you see inside looks impossibly complicated. This mechanism, known as the movement, is typically made up of 200 or more individual parts, most assembled manually in a workshop by someone with very steady hands. Here's a look at one of the complications that represent the height of the horological craft.

On April 15, 1970, a hand-wound mechanical wristwatch saved three astronauts hurtling through space in their crippled craft. The wristwatch, a chronograph, was of a design that was unchanged since the mid-1950s. Despite this, or perhaps because of this, it performed where millions of dollars worth of machinery and computers had failed. Used to time a critical engine burn to align the Apollo 13 capsule for Earth re-entry, the chronograph, an Omega Speedmaster Professional, confirmed its place as perhaps the most useful of watch complications.

Time Writer


The word “chronograph” literally means “time writer,” and that describes its function perfectly. At a glance, the chronograph user can see elapsed time “written” on its dial, from as little as one-hundredth of a second up to twelve hours. The uses for a chronograph are endless, from timing your boiling pasta to laying odds at the horse track to getting a spacecraft home safely.

In this modern age, it is difficult to imagine a world without the chronograph, where time would only exist minute by minute and everything would be estimated. There would be no world speed records for cars, humans or horses. We would have to devise a way to compare times.

While other watch complications have their place, the ability of a chronograph to time events longer than one minute makes it a viable tool more than an exercise in horological prowess. With few exceptions, complications are created to display a watchmaker’s or watch company’s expertise and artistry. But a chronograph was created with a specific, crucial purpose.

Most watch historians credit the invention of the chronograph to a Frenchman, Nicolas Rieussec. In 1821, Rieussec unveiled a machine consisting of a clock movement housed in a wooden box, which drove two rotating paper discs. A person could start and stop the machine by means of a switch, and an ink pen suspended above each disc would literally write the elapsed time on the discs. While Rieussec’s chronograph was a huge breakthrough, it was hardly a practical timepiece. Nor did it tell the time of day.

The pocket watch was the way men told time up through the 19th century, and it was only a matter of time before the chronograph complication made its way into pocket watches. Though not a common complication in pocket watches (a chiming minute repeater was the one to have back then), for scientists, horse trainers and anyone else who needed to measure time precisely, a chronograph became essential.
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